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Unread 02-16-2009, 08:41 AM   #101
Turbe
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The Display LT is the same hardware as the Display 2. The Display 2 ships with X-Rite's iMatch PC Monitor Calibration Software.

Note, the Display 2/LT is not recommended on your Pioneer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
I hate to tell you this, but the Display LT isn't a very reliable meter when it comes to taking measurement over a period of a few days.
D-Nice does give advice if you do use a Display 2 / LT:

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Since you are using that meter, I recommend that you let it warm up on your display for at least 1 hour before attempting to take any measurements. Also make sure you are doing the initial setup of the dark measurement on a opaque black surface after the one hour warm up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkcheng122 View Post
can you give me some examples of opaque black surfaces? currently i lay it on top of my black cd player. as for warming up, i leave the meter on the screen for at least 30min before calibration.
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Inside of a DVD case. And you need to leave it on the screen for an hour.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blutarsky View Post
- Do you think a calibration performed with a I1pro shows eye-perceivable differences in respect to a calibration done with a Display LT?

Thanks again for your precious advices
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
That depends. If you can tame the LT to not flux so much between readings (it can be done....just a PITA to do), and actually have an accurate LT, the visual difference is very, very slight.
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Unread 03-05-2009, 02:18 AM   #102
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Turbe,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbe View Post
The Display LT is the same hardware as the Display 2. The Display 2 ships with X-Rite's iMatch PC Monitor Calibration Software.

Note, the Display 2/LT is not recommended on your Pioneer:



D-Nice does give advice if you do use a Display 2 / LT:
Does the fact "the Display 2/LT is not recommended on your Pioneer" means this applies to all Kuros? I own a Pro-111FD and wonders whether a Display 2/LT would do along with Calman to calibrate it?

Thank you,
freeman
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Unread 03-05-2009, 01:59 PM   #103
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Hi freeman

That is correct, D-Nice recommends the Chroma 5 or I1 Pro minimum when calibrating the Kuros.
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Unread 03-07-2009, 10:20 PM   #104
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What is wrong with the Display 2? Are we talking extremely small differences at best. I currently own a Display 2 and use it to calibrate a color critical LCD Monitor, why wouldn't this work on my plasma?
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Unread 03-07-2009, 10:30 PM   #105
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Where can I get an I1 Pro for $500

Quote:
Originally Posted by LBDiver View Post
Wolfy,

Thank you for all the in-depth comparison charts. When you did your actual panel calibration, did you calibrate via the Display 2 then check parity with the i1 Pro. I am curious because I see mlaun did his comparison between the 2 by calibrating using the i1 Pro then using the Display after.

What I am trying to figure out is if the D2 just provides more scatter, but the underlying calibration is actually quite accurate. Or if one was to calibrate with the D2 then check with the i1 Pro that they would find the actual cal was quite off the mark. Based on yours and others numbers, it looks like with the D2 that once you get within dE +/- 2, subsequent measures with an i1 Pro proves the original calibration to be more accurate then what was originally shown by the D2 data.

As a generalization from the numbers it looks as if dE reduces by 40% + when measuring the same display with i1 Pro vs/. the D2. Therefore if one was able to reach a dE < 3 using the D2 that they should actually stop, since subsequent adjustments and measures are within the D2's error limits, and there is a 90% chance there current calibration is markedly better than what they are seeing.

I have a little more digging to find more comparisons on color accuracies between the 2 to see if there are large enough errors in the D2 to cause noticeable shifts outside the desired gamut. Where i1 Pro readings would show the same calibration further off rather than more accurate like I see in the RGB/D65 graphs.

I am afraid many DIY'ers may be put off with post's that seem to talk more about the Display 2's deficiencies, than what they can achieve with it. Therefore entry into the fun/frustration of DIY calibrating looks to be a base $500 vs. $200, at which point many will probably not do it, or just hire it out. It would be cool of we could establish a consensus on what the d2 can accomplish, what steps need to be taken to warm to achieve maximum repeatability/accuracy, at what point should someone be happy with the results. But best of all we may be able top prove with some certainty that their actual results are better than what they're seeing.

Second for Pioneer owners, I know some have shared their work flow, but has anyone written a action-response for the different adjustments in the CM-S. I finally got around to calibrating the isf modes and have found my 141 to be very sporadic if I make the slightest adjustments to the primary/secondaries, and am far from being able to predict what the damn thing is going to do.
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Unread 03-08-2009, 12:18 PM   #106
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The problem is that you don't now if you have one that is accurate in the first place (it can vary between batches) and some have reported that they do not get consistent readings spanning several days. The Display 2 Series are not NIST traceable, the I1 Pro is and can be re-certified.

There was a time that you could buy an I1 Pro for about $530 (after rebate) but those days are gone...

The least expensive way at this time to buy an I1 Pro is to purchase the CalMAN / I1 Pro bundle, details here: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/anno....php?f=12&a=11

I will say that there are many DIYers using the Display 2 and post that they are happy with their results... I also know that many with the Kuros have upgraded to an I1 Pro or Chroma 5 after using their Display 2.

D-Nice did post some suggestions if you are using a Display 2 series on the Kuros... Info HERE.

Last edited by Turbe; 03-08-2009 at 12:39 PM.
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Unread 03-08-2009, 05:28 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbe View Post
The problem is that you don't now if you have one that is accurate in the first place (it can vary between batches) and some have reported that they do not get consistent readings spanning several days. The Display 2 Series are not NIST traceable, the I1 Pro is and can be re-certified.

There was a time that you could buy an I1 Pro for about $530 (after rebate) but those days are gone...

The least expensive way at this time to buy an I1 Pro is to purchase the CalMAN / I1 Pro bundle, details here: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/anno....php?f=12&a=11

I will say that there are many DIYers using the Display 2 and post that they are happy with their results... I also know that many with the Kuros have upgraded to an I1 Pro or Chroma 5 after using their Display 2.

D-Nice did post some suggestions if you are using a Display 2 series on the Kuros... Info HERE.
Thanks for the response. The Display 2 that I would be using is actually rebranded from NEC and tweaked and calibrated by them to handle their high gamut LCD monitors which have a significant number more colors then the NTSC gamut. That being said I can only hope that it will do a good job. I just can't justify spending $799 on an i1 Pro and then $99 for LCD calibration software right now, when the Display 2 bundle costs $160 with the appropriate software and HCFR is free.
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Unread 12-18-2009, 02:36 PM   #108
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.
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekjsmith
The X-Rite i1 Display2 and DisplayLT do NOT require nor need a black level calibration, same goes for the Chroma5. The X-Rite Hubble/OTC-1000 and i1Pro do need a black level calibration every 10-15 minutes.

If your software says it does then they do not understand how the Display2 works.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged
Although, wasn't there some issue with the D2/LT vs Plasma's and thermal drift?
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekjsmith
Yes the D2/LT can have thermal drift with large temperature changes but this should on only be in the Y not xy. As for D2 thermal drift not much can be done except let the meter sit on the display for 30 minutes or so.

FYI, the D2/LT has factory set sensor dark current offsets that can't be changed.
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